Last winter I built a 5 foot centre section for my sailing canoe. This is a great two person option. . I use the two 55 foot Solway Dory sails with this setup, adding a nice bit of extra power that she can easily handle.
Thursday, 31 December 2020
Sunday, 13 December 2020
One of the first modifications I did was to add a mizzen sail to my 16 foot Wa'apa outrigger sailing canoe. Again I bought this sail from Solway Dory. It is a 35 foot bermudan sail, giving a total sail area of this setup to 90 feet.
I really like having the mizzen sail as it helps to balance the helm and also adds to the performance. This small clip was taken when sailing from Teignmouth back to Exmouth. Both sails are easily reefable by wrapping the sail round the mast.
Saturday, 12 December 2020
I haven't posted for a while so thought it was about time I gave an update.
After much though, a couple of years ago I decided to build a Gary Dierking Wa'apa sailing canoe. I built it using Gary's excellent book Outrigger Sailing Canoes. Initially I built the 16 foot version. The sail is the fantastic Solway Dory 55 foot Bermudan rig:
I built the full sized amas and they do look a little long with the 16 foot configuration, however they perform very well and dampen any hobby horsing effects that can occur in shorter double ender canoes.
Since this initial build I have done a number of modifications including adding additional sails, and building a removable 5 foot centre section for better two person sailing. I'll add some more updates and some videos soon, but suffice to say I am very pleased with my car top sailing canoe!
Friday, 19 May 2017
Sunday, 27 September 2015
Later on returning to the sea front the wind piped up which lead to some exciting sailing:
Tuesday, 22 September 2015
I am having alot of fun with my trimaran setup for the Scupper Pro at the moment and have decided to carry out the following improvements over the coming winter:
- Work out furler reefing system for main and mizzen
- Build new improved amas with a little more buoyancy and longer akas
- Rebuild my mizzen mast step as the original is showing signs of wear after 6 years
- Renew the mizzen sail,
Sunday, 20 September 2015
Here is a pic of John on a training paddle. The headland behind is called Straight Point, and is best known as the location of one of the Royal Marines firing ranges. John informed me that he spent many a day on that range getting up to mischief when he was in the Marines!
Monday, 6 April 2015
- Ultra narrow centre hull with a high beam / length ratio
- Very light
- To be able to fit everything except the hull in my car. This meant the max length of the amas and akas needed to be 8 feet and I would need collapsible masts.
- Modest sail area, Ketch rigged to keep centre of effort fairly low
- Intended to only be used in a sheltered estuary
- To be able to sail in skinny water when necessary, so kick up foils needed, or perhaps skegs
- In order to build a 20 foot trimaran in a 17 foot garage I would make one 16 foot section and a 4 foot section
- Reasonable upwind performance
- My goal was not to make really a high speed craft as this would mean going into a whole design spiral of bigger and stronger components. That being said I do hope to achieve reasonable performance for such a modest sail area.
The hull is made from 4mm ply on the sides and closed cell foam underneath sheathed in fibre glass. The idea of the foam was to enable me to develop the underside into a u shape to help reduce wetted surface. In hind sight this is a very time consuming process and probably for very little gain. If I were to do this again I would have a ply underside.
The akas I made from 8 strips of pine glued and held in a jig. It was not necessary to steam them and was quite a quick method of creating nicer amas than aluminium tube.
Results to date
Well, it certainly is a skinny trimaran! When I first went out I just shifted my weight and with a little stern rudder from my paddle I could steer.....just. I then made a quarter rudder which was not successful, too flimsy and 6 foot from the stern. One particular thing I was really pleased with was the absolute minimum of wake from the hull, as can be seen from the video I have already posted on this blog here
I also found it a bit fiddly bolting on the stern section and akas. This weekend I decided to try adding a shorter permanent stern making it 17 foot instead of 20 feet. This will fit in my garage and there will be no messing with bolting it together. I have also started building a foot controlled rudder which I am hoping will work much better. If the shorter stern section does not work out I may just permanently attach the longer stern but that would mean keeping the boat outside from that point.
Next to do
- Complete rudder and stern section.
- Lower amas and at the same time make a simpler connector rather than the current system of using bolts
- Work out positioning of leeboard, or maybe just use skegs on the amas - I am undecided on this at the moment
- Make a seat with sides so I don't fall off!
- I realise that my initial design goal of getting everything except the hull in my car too limiting on the design. I have therefore decided that if this design proves promising I might make longer, more buoyant amas.
Monday, 30 March 2015
I tried out the new curved akas I have been making on my kayak trimaran today. The pictures show only one sail but I have another mast step behind the seat for a mizzen I hope to use once I have the rudder sorted out.
The akas worked well although using wing nuts to secure the akas and amas takes more
time to setup than I would like and is a little too fiddly for my liking.